Lemony pasta, two takes

One with fennel, one with garlic

Walking through pouring rain and gales yesterday confirmed two things: 1. our storm umbrella lives up to the promise of never blowing inside out and 2. the fallen lemon that had rolled onto the street was like an alert underfoot that it’s lemon season. Whether you pick up that lemon, ask a neighbour to share or have your own, here are two easy weeknight pastas to make the most of them.

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Lemony fennel pasta

A regular pasta dinner during lemon season when fresh fennel bulbs show up at the market. (Picture above.)

Feeds two

Add six to eight garlic cloves, peeled and one large fennel bulb, thinly sliced (150g when sliced) with the peeled zest of one lemon (save the lemon for juicing) to a small heavy-based pot and cover with extra-virgin olive oil. Cook very gently over the lowest possible heat for 20 to 30 minutes or until the garlic is pale golden and the fennel is completely softened.

While the garlic and fennel are cooking, juice the lemon and strain the juice – you should have around 30ml (two tablespoons) lemon juice. Remove the fennel-garlic mixture from the heat, add the lemon juice and season with a large pinch of sea salt.

Cook 200g fresh egg pasta (we use fettuccine) in plenty of boiling, salted water for a minute or two until just cooked. Save some of the pasta water and drain the noodles in a colander. Add the pasta and fennel mixture (with oil) to the pasta pot and heat very briefly over medium-high heat, stirring the fennel through the pasta and, if necessary, adding a little pasta water to loosen and emulsify. Divide between two bowls, crack some freshly ground pepper over the top and if you really need it scatter over some finely grated Parmesan.

Three key moves

1. Cook super slow
   Slow cooking mellows and softens the whole garlic cloves and large shavings of lemon zest, so they melt into and become part of the greater whole. If your gas burner can’t get low enough and you have separate grids on your stovetop, try raising the pot by putting one grid on top of another – and then the pot on top of that.

2. Slice super thin
   Using a mandoline to shave wafer-thin slices of fennel helps it cook evenly, but if you’re doing it by hand just make it as thin and even as you can.

3. Finish like a minimalist
   Be generous with the black pepper and parsimonious with the Parmesan – just enough to add to the seasoning without overpowering.

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Garlic, lemon, and rocket pasta

A store-cupboard supper for when supplies are low. You may just need to nip out for some rocket.

Feeds two

Heat three tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil in a small pot over medium-low heat, add six garlic cloves, finely chopped, and cook, stirring occasionally, for a few minutes, until the garlic is softened but without colour. Set aside.

Cook 250g wholewheat linguine in rapidly boiling, salted water, drain and return to the pot. Add the garlic, oil, 60ml lemon juice, 30 to 40g small wild rocket leaves (larger rocket leaves may just need a rough chop) and a third cup freshly grated Parmesan. Toss well, season and serve immediately – adding a final trickle of extra-virgin olive oil and a handful of freshly-grated Parmesan if you wish.

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